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Everest
Introduction
Day 1: Phakding
Day 2: Namche Bazaar
Day 3: Namche Bazaar (rest)
Day 4: Phortse Tengka
Day 5: Dole
Day 6: Machermo
Day 7: Machermo (sick day)
Day 8: Gokyo
Day 9: Around Gokyo
Day 10: Tagnag
Day 11: Cho La to Dzolga
Day 12: Gorak Shep
Day 13: Pheriche
Day 14: Chukung
Day 15: Chukung
Day 16: Tengboche
Day 17: Khumjung
Day 18: Lukla
Day 19: Kathmandu
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Day
13: Everest Base Camp to Pheriche
After a cold
but not completely uncomfortable night (I did sleep off and on),
we decided to take a morning trek to Everest Base Camp. The fresh
snow of yestarday afternoon still lingered making it an especially
bright spectacle all about. The trail winded up and down and sideways
amongst glacial rock deposits in terrain that could be classified
as 'Nepali flat' for we did not gain much elevation but it sure
felt like it. After nearly two hours we reached the base camp where
it was tent city in every direction. This was the main climbing
season and there were 14 or 15 expeditions aiming for Everest in
early May. I wanted to talk to people in different expeditions and
I briefly met someone from the gigantic American expedition sponsored
by Ford (these guys were well equipped). Even nicer people were
some Italians in a small group and a guy in a corporate expedition
from Seattle. I didn't learn much new except that people had reached
Camp III and were about to set up Camp IV (the last camp on the
South Col). Everyone I saw looked really well-equipped and professional
although a few people who were climbing were a bit old and maybe
a bit fat (the Americans of course). On the way out I went over
to another small expedition and it turned out to be Russians climbing
Lhotse. I wanted to ask questions but I got answers like "Gorak
Shep is that way" and "my English isn't so goot".
The walk back to Gorak Shep was agonizing because Suk and I had
brought one Mars bar each and the lack of food on the four hour
hike had drained our strength. Frequent rests were taken and the
site of Gorak Shep was welcome. I can't remember now, but I think
this was the day that my face got sunburnt. I was too lazy to put
on sunscreen (really stupid actually).
Back at the
lodge, I sat comfortably in the warm midday sun, ate some dal bhat
(I think), and regained my energy. After saying good-bye to Marc
from Arizona, the East German guys, and the Americans from Colorado
Suk and I reversed our course southward out of the high Himilayas.
Gorak Shep to
Lobuche was more pleasant and less strenuous this time. Lobuche
still was miserable but at least the sun shined. Suk was feeling
tired but regained strength after an extended tea break. The relatively
very sunny day clouded up a bit as we pushed on to Dulglha (basically
one lodge that mainly serves lunch). I thought we would stop here,
but this place was somewhat depressing. Pheriche was an hour a way
and I thought we should push on. The distance to Pheriche was somewhat
longer, but the wide open valley with a little vegetation was a
nice change in scenery. Pheriche was a long way off, but we traversed
the open valley relatively fast. Ama
Dablam standing above Pheriche was a sight for sore eyes.
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The
rocky snow-swamped approach to Everest Base Camp. |
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Toward
Base Camp, on the other side of the wall of mountains is Tibet. |
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The
foot of the Khumbu Ice Fall, technically the most challenging
part of the Everest climb. Everest of course is not visible
from the base camp. |
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A
tall mountain near Everest (probably a sub-peak of Everest itself).
Only 7000 meters or so, nothing to write home about ;). |
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Pumori
I believe and the EBC tents. |
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Prayer
flags for good luck. |
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Tents. |
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Mountains. |
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Suk. |
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Mountains
(and the Khumbu glacier). |
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South
view. |
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Nuptse
above my guesthouse. |
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Near
Duhgla (Ama Dablam almost visible). |
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Just
under Tawoche Peak |
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Ama
Dablam to the left, the large valley below, and Pheriche in
the distance at the foot of Ama Dablam. |
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A
less than ideal picture. |
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